Rating:

Name: Cookshop
Location: 156th 10th Ave. at 20th St.
Price: $110 for 2
Server: Larissa
Cuisine: American (Mediterranean influenced)
Chef: Marc Meyer
Myste is addicted to informercial shopping, particularly when said wonder item promises to help you firm that winter ass in only 20 minutes a day. This tendency is already well developed, but this winter she's added a new regimen to her winter ass reduction routine, it's called Veganism. Sorta. Yes it's true Myste has traded in the meat sweat for tofu farts. Yay for me!
In addition to a fine new ass, Myste proudly still sports a healthy bad attitude and a big salty opinion, and even occasionally will chow down at meat masacre dining establishment (or two) with her unenlightened and salty friend Wyoming. Thank god.
But what does this have to do with Cookshop? Nothing. Except we found a good cause and justification for being carnivores for a day. Cookshop (horrible website design btw) buys from local farmers, and uses organic, grass fed, free-range and local (when possible) meats and seafood. Get your closest hippie friend and hug them with a clear conscience!! However, to capitalize on this concept more, their website should very clearly state this. As it was, excellent and thorough online researcher that I am, I'd read it somewhere from some link at some place - but Myste wanted to call to make sure.
When you walk in, the lighting is warm and low, the music is groove oriented and laid back, and the staff all are friendly and attentive, but the bar is really not that cool. For one thing, it's right by the door. Not that this is uncommon in the city, however there was zero ambience at the bar. The bar is a simple L shape, with good spirits and cocktail list, but cheap uncomfortable chairs, no plant life, and really is just not a cozy belly up and stay awhile kinda vibe.
The hostess seated us promptly, but we would have liked it if she'd offered to take our coats in the entry way, as the tables are close together, and wrangling your winter gear in someone's face is just not cool.
Our table was cute, simply set with a large red pepper grinder, simple dinner silver, white napkin and a finger bowl of salt and obligatory candle. In the dining room, the music is not nearly as audible as it was in the bar, and you can definitely hear way too much of your neighbors conversation (and chewing).
Within an acceptable 2 minute time frame (hell yes we follow foodie rules) our server, Larissa came by to greet us and get a cocktail order. Myste ordered the Herbal Sour, and I ordered the Havana Sidecar. Myste's sour herbal clear-conscicience thang was delicious. Tart, not too sweet, floral, goodness in a glass. But my sidecar was a sugar bomb with a shit-ton of brandy in it. Couldn't even finish it. There's no universal guide for sweetness either, because anticipating a possible sugar fest, I asked Larissa before ordering if it were on the tart side of a sidecar. She informed me that it was pretty much perfect, more on the tart side. Alas - it was not.
With Myste's new dietary code of ethics and my food allergies, ordering is now a special and delightful treat for a server. We apologize. We know we're assholes, but have you seen Myste's ass? Please.
Getting on with it... Larissa was informed of our desire to avoid dairy, and my allergy to eggs. We asked about the Squid, the Venison and the Spinach. Rather than check, she said "yup, you should be fine with those." She evidently did talk to the kitchen, but we weren't made aware of this.
Bread arrived and Larissa disappeared for a long long long long time. We had plenty of time to admire the bread.
Ever the unruly and non-committal diners, we asked for tastes of two of the red wines by the glass, the Rioja and the Chianti Classico. Larissa patiently and expediently brought each to our table to taste. The wines were both great, excellent for the region and varietal style, and moderately priced between $10-13 per glass.
First up on the palate was the Seared Montsuk Squid, in a harrissa sauce. This dish was Wow. Yes Wow. Fresh squid, perfectly cooked, a little bit of grill smoke, and served with a combo of ingredients that make a mouth explosion. This is everything we wanted to taste at once: toasted almond, green olive, apricot, and harrissa combined to form heaven. It was savory, slightly sweet, slightly tangy, spicey and delicious. Cookshop changes their menu often. Go tomorrow, and order 3 of them, because it's not a very big portion, and you will want more.
Next came Myste's friend Luis and some kind of special seafood soup. We were suprised to see someone Myste knew, and even more suprised to get free treats! Luis informed us that the aioli had no eggs, so clearly the kitchen knew I was allergic, however no aioli touched my tongue. I'm incapable of believing that the main ingredient in aioli (eggs) is simply not in theirs. Crazy, I know, but fuck you.
The seafood soup was served with crostini, aioli on the side and no spoons. Larissa came by to check on us and quickly fetched us said utensils. The already luke-warm soup was quickly becoming even less warm. Temperature aside, the soup was velvety and delicious, in need of a bit of salt, but maybe that's what the aioli was for.
For dinner Myste and I shared the Venison. Yeah, vegans, that's an animal. We know. Focus here.
Hudson Valley Venison with farro, black trumpet mushrooms and a spiced red wine sauce - perfectly cooked, not gamey and totally awesome - but again, only room temperature. There was no hot nothing on this plate. Even the sauteed spinach side was warm, not hot. But the Venison was incredible. The sauce had hints of rosemary, clove and cinnamon, and would have been the most amazing thing since Cheez Whiz, if it had just been HOTTER.
For desert Luis brought us Pear Cider, Tangerine, Banana and Black Fig Sorbets. I hogged the Pear Cider and Tangerine because I'm a wanton tart, and Myste - sweet occasional Vegan that she is, had the Black Fig and Banana sorbets. See, no fighting. We're not sure if the sorbets were made in house, but whomever is making them is a national treasure. These were not icey or gooey or stringy or clumpy like sorbets can be. Nope. Smooth full figured goodness.
After desert, Luis came out for his photo op:
Bottomline: The food and flavors are truly outstanding. The chef has got his thang down - and is cooking with a conscience. To really dial in this restaurant however, a few things are needed. One, get the food out HOT. Two, work with the bar a little, and Three, make sure the servers are staying focused on slow nights, at the end of the shift. We know it sucks to work late on a slow night, but guests don't give a flying fuck about that.






